GMT Magazine Digital Version - Automn 2022

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GMT No 78 - Automn 2022

MOVING AHEAD TOGETHER

I naugurated last spring with our new layout, the Dossier section of GMT was naturally first devoted to watchmaking exhibitions, then last summer to the theme of disruption in the watch industry. This time, it focuses on the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, of which we are treating you to the official catalog. We take the opportunity to discuss the operation as well as the role as an international showcase for fine watchmaking of this event that is revered by some and decried by others. Everyone agrees on one point, however: some big names are missing and prefer to keep their distance rather than take the risk of losing to competitors. This is a pity for watchmaking as a whole, which goes further and attracts more followers when it is united. Another passionate initiative from the same generation, Only Watch has managed to do just that; so is the GPHG on the right track? Returning to our dossiers, amid the emerging energystress situation, this winter’s dossier will focus on brands’ eco-responsibility. Are watch buyers sensitive to this? In this particular issue, the watchmaking scene glows with the bright colors of fall, even off of the GPHG red carpet. Despite an anxious climatological, political and economic situation, the creativity and enthusiasm of watchmakers – whether established for decades or recently launched – are reflected in well-crafted and increasingly surprising watches. The multiplication of shapes, materials, coatings, technical innovations and thicknesses places time in a dimension beyond itself, where emotion plays a key role. Parmigiani’s aesthetic nec plus ultra, travel with Hermès, Bulgari’s Finissimo revolution, Breguet’s workshops, Bucherer’s Blue attitude and the conviviality of Geneva Watch Days illustrate the varied facets of watchmaking emotion. This is also what moving ahead means.

BRICE LECHEVALIER I Founder and Editor-in-Chief